Thursday, January 19, 2012

Cross banding Veneer tutorial part one

Today I want to show you how to do cross banding on a table top together with a small inlay strip. In the photo my top is all ready for work to start, I routed out the edge with a straight cutter on my drill press. The woods that I will be using for the inlay are just under 1/32" thick, if you can't make your own wood sells Basswood, Mahogany and Cherry in 1/32' thick strips. I cut all mine on the table saw, you can also cut it by hand with a sharp knife and ruler, just go slow and careful as it breaks easy. On the thin strips I used the thickness of the wood as my width and cut them a bit taller than needed, the excess can be sanded away later, it just makes it slightly easier to use, otherwise you have nothing to hold on to.

I first do the thin yellow strip, it is possible to cut miters on such thin wood, I first cut a miter on a scrap piece of wood, I then used this scrap piece to push the thin wood strip against the side of my miter box and then slowly and carefully cut the miter.

Here the first two strips are laid in place and marked for the second cut, remember you can always trim a piece that is just a bit too long with a knife or by sanding, but a too short piece will have to be discarded.

Here the first two strips are being glued, always use wood glue and in this case don't be shy with the glue, you do need glue everywhere, I use a brush and water to get rid of all the extra glue that oozes out.

The third strip has been added, you probably can't see it in the photo but the yellow wood is higher than the table top at this stage.

All the strips has been glued on, now I just ran a flat file all around to make sure the edges are nice and sharp, I left the two small back pieces over long while gluing, otherwise, once again there is nothing to hold on to, I will trim them later. Oh yes, I forgot to mention, my table top has a cut-out in the back, that is where the sliding screen will fit in.

Cutting the cross banding is tricky because of your grain not running lengthwise like normal. I find it the easiest to push hard with my finger right close to the blade while cutting. If your piece is a bit too long support it against a piece of scrap wood while sanding to fit, it snaps off very easily under pressure.

The first two pieces being glued in place.

And the glue is dry.

The last few pieces are glued in place.

Now it needs a good sanding to get everything flush, I use a nice piece of square wood for sanding, I attach sanding paper to it with double-sided tape.

I used instructions from John Davenport's book to get this far, but now I hit a problem, no real furniture  has this double layer of wood showing and although you can see in the photos in this book that the front edges was also done in cross banding there was no explanation on how to do this and I couldn't find info anywhere. I knew I couldn't just add a strip around the front, it would make the table top too big and a 1/32" thick edge showing would look out of scale too, as that is about the thickness of veneer in full scale furniture. I did find a solution all by myself, stay tuned for part two, soon to follow.



ANDA said...

Great show, thank you!

Karin Corbin said...

video tutorials on veneering

Ilona said...

Nice and clear tutorial, I like it and will follow your blog for inspiration. Greetings from a rainy Holland,

Fi.P said...

Hi Elga,

Wow I love your tutorial. Its so helpful for me to see as I would love to start making some furniture. You are very clever indeed.

Thanks for the tip on the wood. I have been having trouble getting scale timbers here.

The tables are beautiful. I will have to look through older posts. Do you buy the legs pre turned or do you do it your self?

Fi x

otterine said...

I've been having computer issues, so I wanted to be sure to come back and tell you how much I love your little tables! This tutorial is wonderful. Opening up possibilities for me. Thank you! :]